A Begwyns Bivouac
After a long day's traverse of the wonderful, wide-horizoned hill
country of Radnorshire held within the arc of the river Wye as
it spills down from Builth and slips east towards the soft shires
of England, I drop down in late afternoon to Painscastle and climb
beyond it to The Roundabout, which is the high point of the Begwns.
The Brecon Beacons are shining westerly as I wander down to the
mawn pool hidden below. The name is a version of the Welsh for
peat, and there are plenty of such expanses of water in the folds
of these hills. Invariably they're shallow with bulrushes around
their margins. This one I remember the farmer creating with a
low earth and stone dyke over 40 years ago. The water spread through
the hollow into a stand of Scots pine, drowning them, and their
dead forms give a stark, melancholic aspect to the scene.
It is offset by the industry of a tractor on the slope above,
shaving the dry bracken and stacking it as big terracotta bundles.
The work done, it groans and jounces away. I cut and lift a square
of turf, make a fire with twigs and small branches from the old
pines, and sit on the greensward with my back to a trunk, watching
the water. A moorhen bobs into view, its call like a chisel glancing
off rock. Sibilant gold crests flit between rushes and pines.
A buzzard circles low, suddenly floundering down in a scatter
of wings. It rips at whatever small prey it has pounced upon.
Dusk fills the hollow with milky shadow, brightening the flames.
I unroll my sleeping bag. A pair of mallard fly in. A breeze ripples
the water, reflections of the pines sway, and darkness wraps itself
around my fire.
Jim Perrin - from the Country Diary section of the Guardian 21st
October 2006
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Jim is a regular contributor
to the Country Diary section of the Guardian alongside his other
works of lecturing and publishing books and articles on a mountaineering
theme at a practical and philosophical level. The picture shows
Jim exploring the remains of Painscastle on Feb 28th 2009.
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